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10.   HEALTH
14.   EVENTS
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CONTENTS: Note that Cape Town Events will be highlighted in Yellow throughout the Newsletter.

  1. Eugenie’s Letter

  2. Practitioner Training- for Companion Animals –JHB & Cape Town!       

 i.      Cape Town: October 4 -9 2013  

 ii.      JHB: September 17-22 2013

  1. Horse Workshops – September 25-292013

  2. TTouch Workshops TBA

  3. TTouch Tips – Getting The Most Out Of Your Dog Walks

  4. Clicker Tips  –  How to Prevent Door-Dashing     

                            - Clicker Training Classes

  1. Puppies  

    1. A Dialogue With Omaha Beagle

    2. Puppy socialization classes in your area

  2. Behaviour / Health

    1. Behaviour:  Guidelines For Teaching Self Control

    2. Health: Surprising Facts About Pet Rats

  3. Shanti & Friends Update:

  4. Your Letters  

  5. Odds and Ends

    1. Website of the month:

    2. Interesting Links

  6. Events

    1. World of Cats and Dogs 19 – 21 July @ Gallagher Convention Centre

    2. Blanket and Food Collective Drive

  7. Dogs or Cats Urgently Needing Homes / Lost animals 


Winter is well and truly here. I’m thinking it must be time to be off to the Lowveld for a while, preferable the Kruger! Nothing revives my spirit like the bush. And speaking of the Bush, I recently had the pleasure to going with a tour of North Americans to the Pilansberg for the night. TTouch Instructor Edie Jane Eaton had organized a tour for them into the Okavango, etc. One of the people along was a TTouch Practitioner by the name of Jenn Merritt. Now Jenn is a dog trainer living in North Carolina and recently wrote a series of TTouch articles for the “APDT Chronicle of the Dog”, which is a magazine that is put out by the Association of Pet Dog Trainers in the USA.

Being the enthusiastic person that I am, I immediately asked what was the chance of getting permission to reprint and the answer from APDT is YES! So I am delighted to be able to tell you that Animal Talk will be running the articles from about Sept/Oct 2013 and the one of the 7 articles will probably run every 2 months. 

I’ll give you a tease on the first two: 

Article #1:  The Tellington TTouch Method: Body Wraps for Calming, Focusing and Anxiety

Article #2: The Tellington Ttouch Method:  TTouch Bodywork for Stress Reduction, Enhanced Learning, and Confidence 

Please do note that in the future the TTouch office will only be open half days, 9:30 until 14:00. The new office manager is Adele and all orders, etc. will be going through her. Heleen, who was with us for 3 and a half years is off on a new journey and we wish her well. 

Here it is WODAC time again! July 19-21, 2013. There will be a TTouch booth run by a few of our Practitioners. You’ll have a chance to speak to and work with Niki Elliot, Lindy Dekker and Tersia Kok amongst others. The interesting thing about WODAC this year is there will be a special Hall dedicated to Horses. So there’s more to see and experience and I know you’ll have a great experience going. Note that Lindy is our top Equine expert, so do take advantage…. :-)  

Here is one of my favourite pics from the Pilansberg trip. This lovely Lioness walked by the side of the road with her cub constantly putting him down and the picking up again to move a few more steps, etc. etc. 

 Lioness and cub

We recently had a wonderful weekend workshop with Instructor Edie Jane on using TTouch for Human needs along with some Feldenkrais exercises thrown in. This work is truly amazing! 

Warmest Regards,

Eugenie Chopin

Tellington TTouch Instructor for Companion Animals





 JHB: 17 – 22 September 2013 

 Cape Town: 04 -09 October 2013 

This program is designed so that you can start at any time. We love mixing beginners with more experienced students. It seems to benefit everyone. We have also been inspired by the number of people interested in this program and don’t want you to have to wait for 2 or 3 years to join us. 

The Cape Town Venue will have to be confirmed later according to the size of the class.  We have used both Canine Concepts in Gordon’s Bay and Timour Hall in Plumstead and loved both of them. 

The training runs over 3 years, with 2-week long sessions per year lasting 6 days. You do NOT need to have any previous experience to join this training. However, you might like to join a 1 or 2 day workshop before then if you are keen to start. Having a basic knowledge can help you retain more of your first session, but again this is not necessary for you to be part of the TTACT V class. If you are interested in a workshop, please go to our website at www.ttouch.co.za and have a look at the workshop page. 

After the Introductory Session and between sessions, students are encouraged to assist at workshops for further experience and do case studies. The program comprises only 2 sessions a year in order to help students with their finances and the need to get time off work. The workshops are scheduled to include a weekend in order to make it as convenient as possible.

The Program is a comprehensive training of hands-on work with Companion Animals such as dogs, cats, rabbits, birds, etc. 

DATE:           JHB: September 24-29 2013        

OR                CT:  October 4-9 2013     

VENUE:        JHB: Tellington TTouch Office Sandown/or Broshacarm Kennels Midrand     

                  CT:  Gordon’s Bay or Plumstead                                                                                         

                 (Venue TBA closer to the time of the training)    

COST:        +/- R4550.00       

R4250 if paid 2 months before the first day of the training. For the Sept./JHB training for instance, that will be July 17th

CONTACT: Eugenie on 011 884-3156 or email eugenie@ttouch.co.za

(Dog Trainer Version)
Pavlov: we fed the chicken on the opposite side of the road each day at 4 p.m. until the chicken’s autonomic system actually began causing the chicken to cross the road at 4 p.m. without even questioning the “why.”

3.HORSE WORKSHOPS: With Debby Potts     

Come and get a taste of this wonderful work to help your horse be the best he/she can be. 

TTeam, a technique developed over the last 30 years, uses TTouch and non-habitual movement to help make the lives of our equine friends a little easier, and to enhance the relationship between horse and owner/rider. 

The 5-day Horse Clinic can be used as one of the 4 Clinics necessary to become a Horse Practitioner. (For more information on How to Become A TTEAM Practitioner go to: www.ttouch.co.za. This clinic is suitable for both professionals & novices alike. This 5-day Clinic includes TTEAM philosophy, bodywork, ground exercises, riding and is also a good overall view of the Horse work. 

Learning the TTEAM techniques will help each rider increase communication with their horse, identify and relieve areas of bodily soreness or discomfort, and help solve training blocks while enabling the horse to learn without fear. 

A truly inspirational method for influencing behaviour, health and performance, including the following:

  • Increase your horse’s willingness to learn and ability to perform

  • Identify and alleviate soreness without drugs

  • Train your horse safely, with confidence, even if you are inexperienced in handling horses

  • Overcome resistances without fear, pain or force

  • Enhance healing and speed recovery of injury  related problems

  • Learn ground exercises to improve balance and develop coordination 






Midrand Donnybrook Stables


5-day TTEAM with Debby Potts

25-29 Sept 2013            


Lindy Dekker on equibalance@iafrica.com or   083 616 0577 or Eugenie Chopin on 011 8843156


(Dog Trainer Version)
B.F. Skinner: on prior occasions when the chicken voluntarily crossed the
road, this behavior was followed immediately by a reinforcing consequence.

5. TTOUCH TIPS:  Getting The Most Out Of Your Dog Walks?By Candi Moon


Take Advantage of Your Daily Dog Walks And End Up With An Even Better Behaved Dog 

Your dog’s walks are a really great time to work on her training.

One reason for this is that dogs don’t generalise as well as we do. For example, if you always ask your dog to sit in the kitchen to receive his dinner, that forms his picture for the ‘sit’ command. ‘Sit’ happens in the kitchen with you standing in front of him holding his dish. If you ask this same dog to sit in the garden and he looks at you blankly, he is not being naughty; he just has not learnt to sit in any other place than the kitchen where his food bowl is one of the cues and you standing in front of him another.

To generalise a ‘sit’ your dog should be taught to sit in every room of the house and with you in different positions, sitting, standing, and even lying down, so that the dog learns the only important variable is the command and/or hand signal to sit, and that your position and the room she is in are not part of the equation.

Walks are a great time to generalise commands, as every few steps is a new place as far as your dog is concerned. Practicing several sits over the course of the walk will help the dog to generalise this command very quickly.

Another reason why training on walks is great is that it teaches your dog to focus on you to find out what you would like her to do next. This results in a much calmer and more controllable dog.

It also lets your dog know that you will let her know what to do in any situation and that she doesn’t need to take matters into her own paws. For example, if you are walking past a gate with a barking dog on the other side you can ask your dog to focus on you and to heel past the gate. This teaches her that you will take care of this stressful situation and that she does not need to retaliate by barking and lunging defensively.

As there will be lots of distractions on walks, like other dogs, people, cars etc. you will start to ‘proof’ your training against distractions. A dog who can do their obedience exercises perfectly at home but goes ballistic as soon as he walks out of the gate is really unpleasant to walk. With patience and consistent training on walks this problem can be solved.

Training with treats on walks is especially useful for nervous dogs as they begin to associate their walks with the yummy treats and fearful feelings change over time into ones of happiness and anticipation.

Some suggestions on using training on walks:

  • If you have a lively dog, ask them to sit often, this will help the dog to calm down and increase their focus.

  • Again, if you have a lively dog, who may bark and pull on leash, a couple of down stays at the beginning of the walk will result in a much calmer dog.

  • When walking down busy roads, and past other dogs on leash or barking at gates, ask you dog to make eye contact with you and heel, then let them resume walking normally once you are past the distraction.

  • If your dog reacts to other people, dogs, bicycles etc. ask you dog to make eye contact with you to break their focus on the distraction. This works best if you ask for eye contact as soon as your dog spots and distraction, but before they start reacting to it.

  • When crossing roads ask your dog to sit at the kerb and then heel across the road with you, this will eventually train your dog to sit at any kerb and wait, a great one for safety if your dog ever gets out by accident.

  • Ask your dog to sit to have his leash put on, sit for you to open the gate and sit nicely while you close it, then begin your walk. This rewards your dog for their calm behaviour rather than taking out a dog who goes crazy with excitement on seeing the leash and is then rewarded for acting like a lunatic by being taken on a walk, which will result in the behaviour getting worse over time.

Thank you to Friend of the Dog website for allowing us to use the article and to Candi Moon for writing the article.  www.friendsofthedog.co.za

(Dog Trainer Version)

Cesar Milan: I bullied, chased, poked, and intimidated the chicken until
it raced across the road, because I am a strong leader….

6. CLICKER TIPS:  How to prevent Door – Dashing

Run toward the sun

Spring seems to be the ultimate door-dashing season, as sunshine returns to cure the cabin fever that plagues many humans and canines during the long winter months. In busy families, the front door seems to be in perpetual motion, constantly revolving and providing myriad opportunities for escape. Friends and clients who have dealt with the stress and worry of a lost dog due to an open door accident utter a common refrain: "It was only open for a second."

Once a dog has dashed through an open door, the possibility of the dog being harmed increases. Recently, I heard about a friend’s dog that bolted out the door (apparently a well-established habit) and ran underneath a car entering the driveway. The driver said she felt the dog roll under the tires! Thankfully, the dog did not sustain serious injuries. Nonetheless, the experience was terrifying for all involved, and left the dog’s owners wondering what they could do to prevent a recurrence. They realized that their luck would run out eventually if the situation were not addressed. 

A lot of prophylactic management and a little careful training can go a long way to keeping your canine best friend safe during spring—and for all seasons. If you are trying to prevent your dog from developing a door-dashing problem or if you are already dealing with a seasoned escape artist, installing new safety measures today will be an effort that is well-rewarded with peace of mind.

Provide plenty of legal exploring opportunities

Many of the chronic door-bolters I see are desperate for more physical and mental exercise. These dogs are usually brilliant problem-solvers (making them great candidates for shaping games!) that love a good challenge. Frequently, they are very active dogs that need more structured activity. When dogs lack appropriate and adequate outlets for their natural need to exercise and explore their environment, they will seek these opportunities for themselves. "FINE! If you won’t take me to the park, I’ll walk!"

While exercise will not solve all problems related to door manners, I find that even my own dogs are significantly less concerned with activity near the door if they have enjoyed a nice long walk or hike that day; their "exploring and adventuring" muscles have already been well-exercised. They’ve already had the chance to smell a hundred smells, and they already know how many dogs peed in the neighbourhood today. At that point, the dogs are more than happy to work on a stuffed Kong or marrow bone so that my husband and I can run in and out of the house with groceries or with tools from a lawn and garden project, or welcome visitors into the home.

Manage, Manage, Manage

One of the most important things to know about door-bolting is that it falls into the extremely self-rewarding category of dog behaviours, alongside its cousins: prey-chasing, counter-surfing, hole-digging, diaper-genie-rummaging, toilet-water-drinking, litter-box-raiding, and stuffed-animal-humping. With all of these behaviours, remember one thing—Dogs get better at anything and everything they practice. This includes polite behaviours, like sitting, relaxing on a mat, or entering a crate on cue, but also includes unwanted behaviours like those listed above as well. Every time your dog escapes successfully, it becomes more likely that he will try to do so again in the future.

Management generally takes the form of tools (often, crates, gates, and tethers) that are used constantly during the training stages and as needed, once the initial desirable behaviours are installed. Once you have completed the training, it is likely that you will no longer need to crate your dog so that you can slip out the front door to retrieve the mail. But, if you are hosting a party of a few dozen friends, not all of whom are well-trained in the management rules of the house, it’s might be a good idea to keep your dog crated, gated, or tethered while your guests are arriving.

You may also consider, temporarily or permanently, using alternative exits to the home, if that is an option. It is convenient when owners of very determined door-bolters have an attached garage or can enter and exit through a contained basement. These owners can invest in training if it is a priority, but already have a built-in safety mechanism, much like the double-gating system in place at nearly every dog park, created to prevent "oops" escapes. You may find that exiting through the back door creates less arousal than at the front door. If so, choose to use that exit during the training process to make life a little easier for yourself. Be careful; dogs get wise to this trick pretty quickly.

Know your biggest challenges and have a plan in place. One common challenge for owners of door-bolters is bringing home groceries or bringing large packages inside. Most doors open out (are pulled open rather than pushed open). It can be challenging to block a dog from escaping, especially when your arms are full and your sight may be limited by the items you are carrying.

In a situation like this, an ounce of prevention may be worth a pound of cure. If a family member is home and you are bringing home more than an armful of groceries, consider calling ahead and asking that person to leash the dog or hang out with him in the backyard until you can get your packages inside and secure the door. If you don’t expect a family member to be home and are planning a large grocery run or a run to the home supply store where you’ll be purchasing many items, consider crating your dog before you leave. When you arrive home, you can unpack without worry. Welcome your dog out of his crate when you have secured the home and are able to give him your full attention for an effusive greeting.

Let the training begin!

Dealing with a door-bolting dog is like training any other behaviour. The key factors are:

  • Prevent rehearsal of the unwanted behaviour (management!)

  • Identify an appropriate, desirable, alternative behaviour (What do you want the dog to do instead?)

  • Teach the replacement behaviour, making it a predictor of good things.

Doors are almost always exciting places for dogs. Who knows what adventures are on the other side? Most of the dogs that I know that bolt at the front door also bolt through other doors that are easier to control and present less of a danger if a mistake is made. Use that to your advantage. (Remember, you really want to avoid mistakes—practice makes perfect, so work to have your dog practice the right thing!)

In this exercise, I’ll use the crate as the first door, but owners should think of as many doors as possible to practice at, so that your dog can generalize the behaviour well. The more doorways you can practice this behaviour in, the more solid the behaviour will be. You can practice at:

  • Bathroom door (you know your dog likes to follow you in there!)

  • bedroom door, if dogs are allowed to sleep in your room or on your bed

  • garage door

  • car doors (both going in and getting out of the car)

  • gates at the dog park, if you frequent one

  • entrance to the training classroom, if you attend training classes with your dog

  • door to backyard

  • door to the pet store

  • Any other doors you can think of!

Step one: Install default behaviours

Decide what you want your dog to do when approaching a threshold. I recommend choosing a behaviour for which stimulus control is not required, because you want this to be a default behaviour. When this behaviour is trained, you want at least one of the cues for the behaviour to be environmental. I choose "sit" for my dogs, and eventually want the sight of a door to be a cue to put their butts on the ground and keep them there until instructed otherwise.

To begin installing a behaviour like this, simply take a good portion of your dog’s kibble and for a few days feed your dog any and every time he sits, whether you ask for it or not. As if by magic, you’ll notice those sits happening a lot more frequently. Let your dog know that sitting earns treats in all kinds of environments—in the backyard, in his crate, out on a walk. The more times you can feed a sit, the better. You want to teach your dog that sitting is a VGT (Very Good Thing) because it makes Very Good Things happen for dogs!

You also want to install eye contact/a whiplash turn so that your dog knows what is expected of him immediately after crossing a boundary. Practice saying your dog’s name in a happy tone of voice, immediately following with a number of super-yummy treats. Do this for a few days as well, in all kinds of environments, until your dog responds rapidly and happily, when he hears his name!

Once your dog is throwing sits at you left and right and loves the sound of his name, it’s time to move on!

Step two: Teach the butt button

 The butt button is a magical button that exists on floors all over the world. This button, when pressed by a dog butt, makes all kinds of doors open miraculously. You and your dog will be learning a very important lesson together. The butt button is in place so that your dog can train you to move toward and open doors.

My recommendation is that you start this exercise with your dog in a crate, provided your dog is well-acclimated to his crate. If your dog is not crate-trained, it’s worth teaching, but you can skip on to the next step, Step three: on-leash practice, for now.

Sit in a comfortable space near your dog’s crate, where you are able to see him easily. I recommend grabbing a magazine you like and browsing an article, using your peripheral vision to keep an eye on your dog. As soon as your dog sits, get up from your chair and begin approaching his crate. As you move, keep an eye on that wiggly butt. If it leaves the crate floor, do not say anything, exhibit no frustration, but quietly return to your seat and the fascinating article you were reading. Again, keep a close eye on your dog, and as soon as he presses the butt button, begin moving. Work in this manner until you are able to approach the crate and place your hand on the latch.

Throughout this exercise, you are only watching your dog’s derriere. As long as it is on the floor of the crate, continue to slide the latch up and open the door. If at any point your dog stops pressing the butt button, stand up and wait for it to go back on the floor before you resume opening the door. Alternatively, you can return to your seat each time the butt comes up and start the exercise again. Eventually, you will be able to get the door all the way open and your dog’s butt will still be on the ground—it’s a miracle! Release the dog from the crate with a "let’s go!" and immediately say his name when he leaves the crate. As soon as he whips his head around, jackpot with 10-15 rapidly-dispensed, but individually-dispensed, super-yummy treats.

Once your dog begins sitting to ask to get out of the crate and waits readily for a release, looking happily to you after exiting the crate, it is time to begin generalizing these behaviours to other doors.

Step three: On-leash practice

It’s time to begin leashing your dog and practicing the same steps:

  1. wait for butt button

  2. quietly and slowly begin opening door

  3. continue opening as long as butt button is pressed

  4. release with "let’s go"

  5. cross threshold and, as you cross, say your dog’s name in a happy tone of voice

  6. get ready to pay off with something fantastic

Practice at all of the doors mentioned above. Practice going in, practice going out. Practice before walks. Practice if your dog wants to go in the backyard for a potty break.

You’ll notice that some doors trigger greater arousal levels than others. To deal with these doors, do lots of practice at less exciting doors first. Practice with the very best treats at the very hardest doors! As your dog progresses through the training stages, you’ll notice that he begins pressing that button faster and faster, even at new doors. You’ll find yourself closing doors far less frequently, and then hardly at all, and then never. You’ll notice that whiplash turn/name response becomes faster and faster until you don’t need to use it much anymore. Your dog will know that walking through a doorway is an environmental cue to offer you focus. At this point, you can choose to vary your rewards—sometimes with a treat, sometimes with a walk, sometimes with the freedom of removing a leash (if the environment is safe!).

Step four: Off-leash?

Some doors will present more danger than others. Often, these are doors that open into potentially dangerous unfenced environments, and may include your front door and car doors. Manage those exits safely over your dog’s lifetime by only allowing him to cross the thresholds when cued and when the leash is safely in your hands. Keep in mind that it is often easier to body-block a dog from bolting through a door that pulls open (moves toward you) than it is with a door that is pushed open (opens "out").

If there are other doors where it is safe to practice, begin dropping your dog’s leash as you approach the door, releasing him through the door with a cue, saying his name as he crosses the threshold. Either reward him with treats as you gather up his leash and move along or unclip the leash and allow safe access to free exploring. This is certainly a "know thy dog" exercise and is not safe for all dogs or all situations. It is better to be safe than sorry when your dog’s safety is on the line, so proceed with caution!

 Need help?

If you are new to clicker training, you may benefit from hands-on coaching from a qualified trainer as you work through the training program. A trainer is someone who can answer your questions, break big learning goals into smaller, achievable steps, and problem-solve if things go off track.

Refer back to our list of people doing Clicker Training 

Thanks to Karen Pryor and www.clickertraining.com  - Go to this website for many more interesting articles.

(Dog Trainer Version)
Barbara Woodhouse: You just say, “Walkies” with the right accent and
place a crumpet on the other side of the road…








Bryanston, Sandton


Fun Obedience


Every Wed evening, Thursday morning & Sat afternoon


R400 per month


Niki Elliott, Kay Aitcheson


011 706 2320

082 451 0433




Clicker Staying Power  

4 x 30 minute sessions  



Tracy & Karen Bullivant

tracyb@twob.co.za  or      011 828 6201

082 809 0028

Gordon’s Bay

Cape Town

Clicker Training

For dates see www.canineconcepts.co.za



Claire Grobbelaar

021 856 5886  info@canineconcepts.co.za



7. PUPPIES:  A Dialogue With Omaha Beagle

Ian Dunbar PhD, MRCVS – Courtesy of www.dogstardaily 

Omaha Beagle As A Puppy

ID: Why do dogs misbehave?

OB: Who’s to say we misbehave. We dogs hold that our behaviour is quite exemplary.

ID: Okay. We, the people, think dogs misbehave. Let’s be a little more precise then and ask; why do dogs chase, chew, dig, snarl, snap, bark and bite?

OB: Largely because we’re dogs, I suppose. Surely you’d be a mite surprised if we flew, did crosswords, kept bones in the fridge, mooed, meowed, and urged lawyers to sue our adversaries?

ID: Okay, okay! Granted, all dogs’ activities are quite normal and necessary ingredients of the natural canine behaviour repertoire. So, it’s not so much that the behaviours are abnormal in themselves but rather the behaviours are simply inappropriate in the domestic setting.

OB: Well, yes and no - I guess it depends on your perspective. We dogs do not necessarily consider our behaviour inappropriate even. On the contrary, a Yorkie friend of mine considers deep-pile carpet the cutting edge in domestic toilets — quite the most perfect place to pee in the entire household. You don’t get your feet wet when you pee on carpets. And old Jack Russell willingly admits that a freshly tilled annual border offers ideal terra softa for excavations (considering the delicate nature of his paws, softened from years of domestic living).

ID: So, correct me if I’m wrong. What you’re saying is that dog behaviours are perfectly normal and natural...

OB: And necessary!

ID: ...and necessary in the wild...

OB: And in the domestic setting!

ID: ...and in the domestic setting.

OB: And so the onus lies with the owner to provide and indicate mutually acceptable and appropriate outlets for our necessary doggy activities, otherwise...

ID: "Otherwise?

OB: ...otherwise we are forced to improvise in our quest for occupational therapy to pass the time of day.

ID And no doubt you’ll get it wrong. Right?

OB: Right! And then we get punished for breaking rules that we didn’t even know existed.

ID: That’s not fair.

OB: Well, it hardly makes us happy. (As a breed, Malamutes are renowned for their biting, litotic sarcasm.)

ID: Hmmmm! Have you ever tried explaining to your owners that you are unaware of any wrongdoing?

OB: Sure - Every time they come home.

ID: And what happens?

OB: They punish us when we run to greet them at the door.

ID: Perhaps they don’t like the exuberant goosing, pawing, licking and jumping-up. Why don’t you sit...

OB: That’s a good idea! Never thought of that... But they loved all the attention and physical affection when we were puppies. I guess our only crime is that we grew.

ID: What I meant to say was why don’t you sit down and talk it out with your owners?

OB: Oh, they never listen. Whenever we sit, they just say "Heel, Sit, Heel, Sit..," and after going round in squares, we come back to where we started. It all seems so pointless.

ID Have you tried pleading with your owners?

OB: All the time. But it’s always worse if we act obsequiously. Then they assume we misbehaved on purpose and punish us all the more severely.

ID: Don’t you ever get angry?

OB: If we get angry, they kill us.

ID: That’s terrible! What can I possibly do to help the plight of pet dogs?

OB: Well for starters, you might consider publishing a Puppy Training Manual for People.

ID: Consider it done!

This dialogue between Dr. Ian Dunbar and his Alaskan Malamute puppy, Omaha Beagle, prompted Dr. Dunbar to write the book How to Teach a New Dogs Old Tricks. (James & Kenneth Publishers, 1991 & 1996.) First published in 1982, as Dialogue Between The Doctor & The Dog, the dialogue was based on the Malamute’s musings of other dogs’ troubled lives with their owners. Omaha’s musings bore no reflection to his wonderful life with his owner — The Doctor.

© 1982 Ian Dunbar

Article courtesy Ian Dunbar and Dog Star Daily, http://www.dogstardaily.com





(Dog Trainer Version)
Karen Pryor: by associating R+ with road crossing and P+ with standing
still, with a VR schedule, and offering a reward in keeping with the
Premack principle, we increased the intensity and frequency of the road crossing


All classes below are given by TTouch Practitioners or Practitioners in Training and incorporate TTouch in the Handling of puppies. 

õ  Alberton:  Puppy 1 and Puppy 2 classes held on Wednesday mornings and Saturday afternoons.  Private Sessions on request.  Elaine Botha 0726424447,or at admin@petsinbalance.co.za

õ  Bedfordview/ Edenvale/Linksfield/Orange Grove: Puppy Starter Session -One private session with comprehensive booklet; Contact Scotty on 011 882 2418 (h); 082 928 0102 or scotty@scottysdogs.co.za   

õ  Riverclub Vet in Parkmore on Saturday mornings with Puppy 1 and Puppy 2 classes. Niki Elliott 082 451 0433 or niki@puppiesinbalance.co.za

õ  Bryanston on Wednesday evening, Thursday morning and Saturday afternoons for Puppy 1, 2 and Advanced Open classes. Private Sessions on request. Niki Elliott 082 451 0433 or niki@puppiesinbalance.co.za

õ  Gordon’s Bay: Puppy Classes for pups under 4 months. On-going: new every 6 weeks. Claire Grobbelaar 021 856 5886 or 082 784 7524 Claire.g@mweb.co.za

õ  Lyndhurst, Gresswold, Bramley, Kew, Waverley Area: Puppy Socialising, 6 Week courses on Sundays. Nicky Lucka 083-408-1517 lucka@absamail.co.za

õ  Oaklands, JHB: Puppy Socializing Tersia Kock 082 828 0505 tkock@telkomsa.net

õ  Parkwood: Puppy Classes, 6 Week courses Tersia Kock 082 828 0505 tkock@telkomsa.net

õ  Cape West Coast - Langebaan, Puppy 1 Classes. Adult classes. Private Sessions on request. Wendy Wilson – overthemoon@iafrica.com 083 336 1761.

(Dog Trainer Version)
Pat Miller: I look forward to the day chickens can cross the road without having their motives questioned.

Kathy Sdao: Chickens should be able to cross the road without having to earn the privilege - crossing the road in life is free!

9.BEHAVIOUR:  Guidelines For Teaching Self Control                                                                                                                                 Teaching your Dog Self Control as the foundation for all other learning by Suzanne Clothier 

Does your dog pull on lead when someone approaches? When he sees another dog? If joggers run by? If children are playing? if a cat or squirrel dash through the yard? Is he hard to control at the vet’s or groomer’s? When people come into your house? 

If the answer to any of these questions is yes, chances are your dog needs to learn self-control. Just as children must learn to control their impulses before they can mature into responsible adults, dogs must learn self-control before they can become well-mannered canine citizens. Self-control must be taught, just as you teach him to sit or speak or come when called. 

Every owner can teach his dog self-control by following these guidelines: 

Train, don’t restrain. Taking a firm grip on the leash and collar teaches the dog nothing except that you can restrain him. Instead, give a simple command, such as sit, reminding with the lead if needed, then loosen the lead so there is no tension at all. If the dog breaks position, quietly and slowly reposition him, and loosen the lead again. 

Ask for compliance, not submission. View working with your dog as you would work with any friend. Avoid creating a struggle by asking the dog for more than he can do at the time. For example, if your dog is really excited, he may be unable or unwilling to lay down, but agreeable to sitting quietly with a few reminders from you. Compromise and be reasonable - most struggles between dog and owner are created when the owner attempts to dominate the dog, instead of finding a solution acceptable to both owner and dog. 

Remember the dog does not know what his options are. A dog who is lacking self-control simply does not know that it is possible to sit quietly in the face of distractions. It is the owner’s responsibility to show the dog that he has options other than lunging, pulling or leaping around. 

Move slowly and talk quietly. A dog who is highly excited needs calm, slow handling. A common mistake owners make is to move quickly, grabbing at the leash and collar, raising their voice and speaking in short, sharp tones. From the dog’s point of view, the owner appears as excited as they are, and short sharp tones often sound like barking. Instead of calming the dog, this reinforces his excitement. By moving slowly and talking quietly, the owner sends a clear message to the dog that he is not excited and is in control of the situation. 

Remind and ask, don’t demand. A dog who is already excited is likely to resist a harsh correction or respond by becoming more excited. "Ask" by using the lightest possible touch on the leash and collar, and remind the dog what he’s doing each time he forgets and shifts position. 

Work on teaching self-control in all situations. Begin by working in distraction free areas, and ask your dog to sit on a loose leash for five minutes. Gradually move on to more exciting situations, and practice often. Work at home, at friends’ homes, in parks, shopping centres, at dog shows, training classes and the veterinarian’s. As your dog’s self-control and respect for you increases, you can add lying down quietly for up to 30 minutes to his skills.

For more information, we recommend the Flying Dog Press booklet Understanding & Teaching Self Control.

Editor’s Note: TTouch has a wonderful method of containing the dog using a long leash, it’s called a Balance Leash and helps the dog easily know what is wanted. You can find an article on Balance Leashes on www.ttouch.co.za

(Dog Trainer Version)
Bill Koehler: a few well-timed pops on the choke chain and the chicken was
happy to cross the road.

Nicholas Dodman: I gave the chicken fluoxetine, sertraline, paroxetine,
carbamazepine, and azapirone and then it was happy to cross the road.

"Konrad Lorenz: I was the first living being the chicken saw when it hatched, so now it follows me everywhere, even when I cross the road."
10.   HEALTH

9.HEALTH: Surprising Facts about Pet Rats  

  Fact #1: Rats have touchy tummies and whiskers                                                                                                                                       Rubbing a rat’s belly like you would a dog’s isn’t recommended until the rat trusts you and is very comfortable with you. And if you stroke your rat’s face, make sure to rub in the direction the whiskers grow (stroke back toward the ears) – pulling them forward is very uncomfortable for the rat.

 Fact #2: Rats love to be petted in certain spots. 

Your rat probably likes having the top of his head stroked and gently scratched. He also appreciates it if you pet him along his back, from his neck to about the middle – the area closest to the tail can be sensitive. Rats usually enjoy having their ears rubbed.

 Fact #3: Rats are extremely sensitive to electromagnetic fields.  

Rats have highly tuned senses and can become overwhelmed by the electromagnetic fields generated by electronic devices. Until a new rat is well acclimated to your home and shows no signs of agitation or irritation when exposed to electronic devices, you should keep her habitat in an area of the house with a minimum of electronic activity.

 Fact #4: Rats can sense moods.     

It’s always best to interact with your rat when you’re in a good mood and feeling calm. Rats can sense tension, fear and other negative emotions in the people who handle them and may respond in kind. Try to give off only good energy when you’re hanging out with your rat.

 Fact #5: Rats have a wild side.   

Your pet rat will keep his wild, wary nature – including a tendency to bite -- without frequent, gentle human handling. Like any pet, your rat should be considered a member of the family. Talk to him and interact with him regularly in a calm, gentle manner so he learns to trust and depend on you.

Dr. Becker’s Comments:


I think domestic rats make wonderful small pets for the right family.

They tend to be more interactive and sociable, more intelligent, quieter and cleaner than other types of pocket pets. They are my most recommended small mammal pet for responsible kids because they are smart, resilient and have amazing personalities.

More Interesting Facts About Rats                                                                                                                                                                          Fact #6: Rats grind their teeth.   

… but not during sleep, like humans. Rats grind their teeth when they are feeling content. Interestingly, they also do it when they’re feeling stressed. The grinding keeps their tiny choppers at the proper length.

 Fact #7: Some rats are hairless.          

Hairless rats are bred from breeding two Rex rats (rats with soft, curly coats). They are often referred to as Double-Rex. These little guys should be housed with furred rats if possible. Their skin is a bit thicker than normal, but it’s safe to assume they get cold quickly due to lack of a coat.

 Fact #8: The average rat litter is 12.    

That’s the average, but a litter of just one or over 20 ‘pups’ and ‘kittens’ is possible. Female rats have 12 nipples, so mothers with large litters will separate the babies into two groups and take turns feeding each group.

 Fact #9: Rats have poor sight.     

Especially pink eyed rats. Rats will often sway while standing still – they do it to detect motion.

 Fact #10: Male and female rats differ in both appearance and personality.    

Female rats are smaller than their male counterparts, and their fur is usually softer. They are also quite a bit more active. Your male rat is more apt to sit contentedly in your lap while you pet him.

  Fact #11: There are adoptable rats at animal shelters.        

Most people interested in getting a rat don’t think to visit their local animal shelter to adopt one. The fact is pocket pets are dropped off at shelters regularly. Most never find new homes and are euthanized. If you decide to have a rat as a pet, I urge you to check for adoptable pets at your local humane society or animal shelter first.

 Fact #12: Cedar and pine shavings are unsafe as bedding for rats.       

 Cedar and pine are soft woods, and the shavings contain phenols which are toxic to rats. The caustic compounds in phenols can cause respiratory problems and kidney and liver damage in pocket pets. Also avoid using clay-based or clumping kitty litter. Shavings from hard woods, like aspen, are preferable for your rat’s habitat. You can also use shavings made from paper.

 Fact #13: Rats thrive in the company of other rats.       

Rats are social and do much better with other rats around. I recommend you have at least two rats so they can keep each other company. Same sex pairs or groups are best. Male rats are generally not aggressive with one another if raised together from a young age.

 Fact #14: Rats don’t throw up.              

Rats have a very strong wall between the esophagus and stomach. It’s physically impossible for your rat to forcefully expel food from his tummy. Once in a great while a rat may passively regurgitate, meaning digested food in the stomach flows back into the esophagus. This is a very rare occurrence, however.

 Fact #15: Baby rats play fight.        

You may notice your young rats chasing and jumping on each other, and pinning one another to the ground. The babies are trying to get at the other’s nape – that’s the object of the game. If they can contact the nape, they gently nuzzle it. This is play fighting, and it starts at around 18 to 20 days of age. You’ll probably notice the youngsters really going at it when they get to be 30 to 35 days old, and then the behavior will start to wane.

About Dr. Becker            

Dr. Becker is a licensed veterinarian in Illinois. Voted one of Chicago’s top 10 veterinarians, she is certified in veterinary acupuncture and homeopathy, and opened her clinic, the Natural Pet Animal Hospital, in 1999 www.healthypets.mercola.com

(Dog Trainer Version)
Patti Ruzzo: I crossed the road, pausing every step to spit a treat out of
my mouth like a human pez dispenser and the chicken followed along
catching the treats.

Electric Collar Advocate: whenever the chicken does not cross the road I
give it an electric shock. But do not worry, the shock is no more than you
would feel if you walked on a carpet wearing socks and it does not bother
the chicken at all. The feathers standing up and the smell of burning
flesh mean nothing. In fact, they are happier having nice clear communication
than they would be otherwise.


Shanti had her 12th birthday recently and while she sleeps a lot of the day away, she is always up to play. It seems not so long ago that she actually was ready to play 24/7! Thank goodness we’re growing older together; I’m not sure at this stage whether I could handle all that energy. So in the future, I’m hoping to find just the right adult dog to join our home. While puppies are adorable, they do need lots of training. 

Shanti also has had more pain than usual this winter for her spondylitis and we’re working on finding just the right spot for the Lifewave patches. We use these in addition to the supplements recommended by holistic Vet, Garry Eckersley. Shanti and I were there recently for a bladder infection and Garry gave me tips on where might be the best spots for Shanti’s pain. It’s great to have a Vet who is open to patches, acupuncture, etc. etc. If you are interested in finding a Vet in your area who uses complimentary medicine you can go to http://www.cvmg.co.za and you’ll find a list of registered Vets. 

In the meantime, Harley and I watched “Lady and the Tramp” together. The fact that it was animated didn’t deter him in the least from recognizing the dogs on screen. This movie was a favourite one of mine as a child and I have to confess that I did let the “inner child” out to watch again! A grand time was had by all!


11.  Your letters:       

 Tracy Moxey – one of our Equine Practitioners gave demo at SARDA in Durban

Hi Tracy

On behalf of all the very fortunate SARDA volunteers that attended on Saturday morning, a huge thank you for your wonderful presentation.   Your deep knowledge and empathy with horses was tangible and inspiring to all that attended, regardless of their equine experience.   The volunteers left with much to think about and TTouch techniques to put into practice to help ensure happy and healthy special ponies for our little riders with special needs.  Many thanks once again for giving up your Saturday morning for SARDA Durban and very best wishes with your forthcoming 2-day course.   Kind regards  Linda Wilson

(Dog Trainer Version)
Yuppie: chickens are just like little people in feather jackets, and if
you love them and give them diamonds and feel sorry for them all the time,
they will be happy to cross the road for you.

Paris Hilton: Because I put it in a Gucci bag and carried it.

12. Odds And Ends    

a)      Book of the Month: Dressage with Mind, Body, and Soul: A 21st-Century Approach to the Science and Spirituality of Riding, Training, and Competing (Paperback) is the Book of the Month.  Available now from amazon.com. 

Hilary Moore Hebert, senior editor, Dressage Today wrote:  Anyone who read Linda Tellington-Jones’ book excerpt in the May issue of Dressage Today can understand why Dressage with Mind, Body & Soul was selected for June’s book of the month. Her ideas are some of the most cutting edge in dressage at the moment, but remain somewhat traditional in their approach. For dressage enthusiasts who enjoy the discipline’s philosophy and how to build on our understanding of it, this is a must-read.  

This book is not  just for dressage enthusiast, but for anyone interested in horses - and several of the chapters can be directly related to working with dogs and other animals. So far there are 11 reviews on Amazon. one person gave it only 2 stars and 10 readers rated it with 5 stars.

And you can get it and 4 other of my books on Amazon Kindle!                                                                                        Here are 3 exerts - the second from a western rider

Linda Tellington-Jones’s new book is a brilliant gift to the equestrian community. I have known Linda for a number of years and been inspired by her integration of neuroscience, horsemanship and intentionality. As a somatic movement therapist, movement analyst and Tellington Horse practitioner, I find this new book to be an elegant synthesis and distillation of all of her previous work. In particular, her use of mind-mapping and colour to refine and expand the dressage training scale is a much needed addition to and enhancement of classical riding. This book is beautifully conceived, organized and designed and readers will find it both easy and inviting to explore. Linda’s research and writing is always embodied, always pushing the edges of science, art and spirituality. I highly recommend this book to horse people and anyone interested in spirituality and the body-mind connection.  Paula Josa-Jones, MA, CMA, RSMT 

Awesome book! I love the colours, and the way it is written is uplifting, to read it makes your spirit soar! Even though we are western ranch riders, the idea of how to work in partnership with your horse is sooooo true! 

 Step out of the box and leave the conventional wisdom of how horses learn behind. This book opens the door to endless possibilities. Linda says "change your mind change your horse" treat yourself to a great read and start to experience the magic that Linda has been sharing with the world for more than 30 years. 

a)       WEBSITE OF THE MONTH: http://thefamilydog.tv/body_language.html


  • Having problems getting along? This short video is a must!  http://www.wimp.com/orangutandog/  This will put a smile on your face! 

  • This is truly incredible.  Osprey gets 5-6 fish at a time, then a flounder under 3’ of water, and then makes off with what looks to be a 5+ lb. Steal-head…

Also, never seen bird shake water off like a dog does.

 There are 3 sequences in this one video:

  • 1st sequence he catches half a dozen fish in one strike.

  • 2nd sequence he plunges talons into deep water right to the bottom to grab his prey.

  • 3rd sequence he captures a big old fat fish that looks as if it weighs more than he does!

This is incredible to watch... enjoy


(Dog Trainer Version)
Shelter director: Any chickens that do not cross the road will be
euthanized for their own good, and the others we will “adopt” out tomorrow for only
$200 each. Please send us money so we can keep doing more of this
important work!
14.   EVENTS

13. EVENTS  

  • WOCAD – World of Cats and Dogs  19 – 21 July at Gallagher Convention Centre

There will be a TTouch booth run by a few of our Practitioners. You’ll have a chance to speak to and work with Niki Elliot, Lindy Dekker and Tersia Kok amongst others. The interesting thing about WODAC this year is there will be a special Hall dedicated to Horses.    

  • Blanket and Food Collective Drive 2013 for the Shelter Animals.

10 years of helping those who do not have a voice.

The Winter Blanket Drive is an initiative that was launched 10 years ago. It was initiated o provide support to the Animal Shelters working at grass roots to alleviate the pain and suffering of abandoned and neglected animals. In the years that it has been running we have extended our reach country wide and to in excess of 50 shelters and organizations.

The Drive has only one focus and that is the animals. Whether it be by way of providing blankets, food, medical care, sterilization campaigns or a few toys to brighten some sad eyes. This is why we are involved and with your support we can get what is needed to where it is needed.

For ways you can help please visit our www.blanketdrive.co.za website or call Melissa on 083 276 2962

(Dog Trainer Version)
PETA member: chickens have the right to live in world without roads. Any
chicken that lives within a hundred miles of a road is suffering an
inhumane existence and might eventually be hit by a car so we should kill it today
to ensure that it does not die tomorrow.

14.DOGS/CATS NEEDING HOMES – Please Only Contact The Numbers Stated 

Homing 2year old bassets

They are 3 years old. Bonny is girl and still able to breed, has short hair and quite energetic. Clyde is Bonnie’s brother and has been neutered.  He is longhaired and is very passive. They were brought up with my 2 and 4 year old and are very good with them. Great for kids or people with smaller gardens. I have also attached their Facebook page. http://www.facebook.com/HomeBonieCLyde. Contact Jo Rose on jo@timcitypta.co.za 

11 week old male Labrador mix puppy needs a home. Has been neutered – Please contact Bianca/ Joan at The Dawson Kennels, 082 878 7744, 11 Glen Gory Road, Benoni 

Home Needed : Basha & Morgan the Bull Terriers - Basha the female is 8 and Morgan the male is 7 and both are sterilised.  It is not essential that they are re-homed together as long as the new owner can give them lots of love and attention.  The owners of these dogs are very upset at having to let them go as they have been very loved, but unfortunately they have to move. Please contact Wendy at wendythedogsaver@gmail.com or 082 6006411  

REF WS0412 - Simba/Hammy, tiny male corgi (cat friendly) – need a good home – please contact Wendy at wendythedogsaver@gmail.com or 082 6006411  

Alaska urgent home needed ASAP. White male cat needs an URGENT home; mum allergic have had to downsize their house. Alaska- loving, enjoys being snuggled and stroked, can act like’ lord Charles’ . Loves salmon & chicken, Iams. Vaccinated and sterilized. +/- 5yrs old.  Contact  Ansie +27824611132 ghamedutoys@mweb.co.za 

Sawyer is deteriorating.  She is a beautiful cat - had a home and was dumped by her owners. She is pining and not eating well and very miserable.  Please contact Sacha if you can help. Even if it is for a couple of months until a more permanent solution is found. Sacha 083 377 3219 (sms or call) 

Chester, Male Boxer, Benoni East Rand.  Owner retired, rehome: ASAP as he is currently kennelled.  Chester is fairly calm but playful.  Although he is well behaved inside the house environment.  CONTACT PERSON:   Judy Adams or Wendy Burrows at 082 6006411 Judy or 083 235 5362 Wendy wendythedogsaver@gmail.com or 082 6006411 Judy or 083 235 5362 Wendy.  Ref: WC1005 

Found : This beautiful female dog, probably a  chow/husky cross, with brown eyes, was found in Jean Avenue Centurion on morning of 3 July in peak hour traffic. She has a dense dark brown to charcoal fur and looks like a real teddy bear!PROOF OF OWNERSHIP STRICTLY REQUIRED!!Contact:  Celia: 082 569 2663  012 667 6542

 2 German Shepherds In Need Of A Home Together, Benoni East Rand.  Rex (9 - male) and Venus (7 female).  Rex is chipped and Venus will be chipped before being rehomed.  Rex is ball mad, and will spend hours playing catch.  Venus is a little overweight, but that is nothing that a good diet can’t fix.  Both are friendly easy going dogs.  Rex is terrified of storms.  wendythedogsaver@gmail.com / jennyl@global.co.za  083 235 5362 Wendy  REF WRV0306


(Dog Trainer Version)
HSUS member: I do not know anything about animals, I have never been
around animals and am not really fond of animals, but we passed a law mandating
that chickens be kept without cages because animals belong only in the
wild and cannot be happy coexisting with man, so now they are walking wherever
they want.
© 2006 TTouch - eugenie@ttouch.co.za.   All Rights Reserved.