What is TTouch?Dogs/ Cats / Rabbits etc. - Companion AnimalsHorses - TTeamArticlesPractitionersWorkshopsResources
contact us
site map

  links newsletter photos testimonials fun & inspiration SHOP  
What is TTouch? Body Work Groundwork TTouch & Vets
Dogs Cats Birds Rabbits/ other Practitioner Training How to do the Touches
Horses - TTeam Playground of Higer Learning Practitioner Training
TTouch TTouch & Vets Puppies Clicker Training
What is Clicker Training Clicker for Shelters Articles Workshops
Practitioners in your Area How to Become a Practitioner Level Explanation
Complimentary Practitioners Products that help Healing Kennels & Catteries Pawtraits Where to buy Books & Products
DOGS      - Workshops      - Client Mornings      - Practitioner Training for
         Companion Animals
     - Lectures/Demos      - Clicker Training      - Puppy Classes CATS HORSES      - Workshops      - Practitioner Training      - Lectures/Demos/Client
        e-mail this page       print this page  
 ARTICLES > Clicker Training > Clicker Tips: How to Train a Crazy Dog
  Clicker Training  Article:
Article By: Laura van Arendonk Baugh        Publish Date: 2011-07-01

Call me crazy

I like crazy dogs.

I like over-the-top dogs, dogs that come bounding in biting at their leashes (or anything else they can cram into their mouths). I like rambunctious, nutty, go-getters that exhaust their owners. Those are my favourite dogs to train. Why do I enjoy these dogs so much? I find them to be surprisingly easy and rewarding. All of that dog energy can be channelled to our own purposes!

Most pet owners want to reduce the arousal their dogs show (and most dogs will calm progressively with age and  training); some competition or working handlers want to keep the hair-trigger reaction, but with reliable, trained behaviours. Both ends are possible with clicker training.

A friend, a crossover trainer like me, was bemoaning the superb enthusiasm of her young, unneutered, standard poodle. His habit of pogo-jumping was wearing her out. "I canít train him to heel until I can stop his bouncing," she complained.

"Not true at all," I protested. "Donít you dare try to stop that bouncing. You want that energy for happy, enthusiastic heeling. Use it!"

Channel the energy

How do you channel and use that energy? There are several principles I follow in channelling the energy of eager achievers.

  • Ignore the crazy stuff. Owners of "crazy dogs" tend to see and focus on the obnoxious jumping,  the leash biting, the lunging for enthusiastic greetings, and the persistent harassment to play tug or fetch. I see a dog asking in every possible way to engage with his human, a dog begging for the interaction of operant conditioning. These dogs just adore inductive training and respond to it quickly.

Many compulsive methods require considerable time and effort to suppress unwanted behaviour, all before starting to teach desirable behaviour. With clicker training, you can jump straight into teaching a new behaviour and disregard what you donít want, trusting that it will disappear shortly. If you are like me, the surplus excitement wonít bother you. With clicker training, youíll get what you want soon enough!

Why do I enjoy these dogs so much? I find them to be surprisingly easy and rewarding.

Love that energy. Enthusiasm carries into training, making training that much easier. All the effort the dog is putting into bucking like a bronco on the leash will soon be thrown into eager downs and fast targeting! This makes the trainerís work simpler. You donít have to create new behaviour; you just have to shape whatís already occurring. And thatís perfect for a lazy trainer like me!

Use the dogís own motivation. With an average dog, you have to take time to find what motivates that dog ó a special toy, a preferred treat? Crazy dogs are motivated by everything! That means you wonít be stumped when the dog gets distracted or when youíre caught without treats on hand. Simply use whatever is stimulating the dog in the current environment. More benefits for a lazy trainer! "You want to see that friendly new person? Fine, letís work for it! And you can keep eye contact to earn this stick I picked up." Crazy dogs tend to tell you exactly what they want to work for at the moment. If you believe them ó he wants to play tug, or meet a person, or chase a ballótheyíre eager to work for their reward. Reinforcement is control.

Too often, owners have been told they have to "get control of" their dog by suppressing his natural energy. But energy has a critical mass; if suppressed and contained too long, it cannot help but explode into activity. This is why a dog that does not know how to earn a toy, for example, will grab at hands or clothing. The forcible condensing of fusion results in a supernova, and the same is true for crazy dogs! Suppression creates time bombs, and the mere illusion of command. With clicker training, youíll get what you want soon enough! Channelling creates true control. A dog that knows itís possible to earn what he wants can control himself to get it instead of fighting with his owner or trainer. (Careful management of criteria is critical here!) If you try to fight the dogís natural exuberance, you will never really manage his energy. But once the dog believes he can earn his energy release, you have him forever.

The dog winsóand chooses control

Thatís all very well in theory, but how does this work in practice?

The dog can always win. I start teaching a very basic conceptówhat the dog wants is available to him, but by my rules. You donít want frustration, you want analytical thinking. Itís very easy for this type of dog to get locked into frustration and hectic behaviour. You can establish right from the start that thereís a way to win if he thinks about it.

A dog that knows itís possible to earn what he wants can control himself to get it instead of fighting with his owner or trainer.

Inherently, this concept includes impulse control. Rather than plunging about in a desperate scramble for what he wants, the dog can hold himself still and try to earn it. (If the dog and owner team need impulse control instruction right away, for safety reasons, it is possible to start there. Personally I prefer to jump right in to teaching a new behaviour, but I donít mind being jumped on or scratched before the dog acquires the new behaviour. Some handlers canít tolerate such risks, though.)

Hereís how I teach very basic impulse control.

I show the crazy dog a treat, briefly, and then enclose it in my fist. The dog will probably attempt to poke it free, nudging my hand, pawing at me, nipping, and barking. (I usually start this exercise myself, as most clients donít have the experience to trust where this is going!) The average crazy dog is active and will not pause  in his quest, but will actually pull back as if to pounce again. Right then, I click that quick movement and open my hand, delivering the treat or letting it drop to the floor. Then I repeat the process. Most dogs are backing up within a half dozen repetitions, though some take longer if theyíve been reinforced for obnoxious or pushy behaviour. Itís also possible to do this with a tug toy, but, in any case, practice your technique in advance ó accidental nips and grabs are no fun!

Helpful hints

  • Split criteria. Then, split it finer. And even finer! Criteria-splitting is the single biggest error made with crazy dogs. Trainers and handlers tend to "lump," failing to break behaviour into achievable pieces. What would seem like an ideal increment for a more typical dog is really a tremendous leap for "crazy" dogs. When success isnít achieved quickly, these dogs load energy and release it in hectic and undesirable behaviour. (Itís at that point that some owners or trainers decide to use compulsion or coercion to control the dog.)

Right then, I click that quick movement and open my hand, delivering the treat or letting it drop to the floor.

The thing to remember is that the dog can always win. If the dog knows thereís a right answer and that he can achieve his click, he will not stop trying to get it. There will be problems only if the criteria are not appropriate or if all the pent-up energy is not relieved appropriately.

When I worked with my young dog, Laev, I taught stationary duration behaviours in quarters or eighths of seconds initially. Iíve worked with other dogs and taught them to tolerate a handlerís departure with the slight movement of one shoe. Once the dog has the idea and develops the necessary self-control, increments can be increased substantially, and the larger behaviours can be achieved (a three minute stay, for example). Always start small.

  • Provide an energy release. Most people donít realize how stressful learning can be. Stress isnít necessarily bad. In fact, sometimes itís not distress, but eustress (a pleasant or curative stress). Stress does still take a toll on the dog, though. Many dogs indicate that they need a break by losing attention, wandering away, or sniffing. My favourite crazy dogs indicate fatigue by launching themselves at you or another attractive outlet, or by jumping, nipping and barking.

There has to be a way for the dog to dump energy, and it should almost always be through movement. Play tug, prompt a favourite active trick, or simply move about. Place this release behaviour on cue early in training and use it to release energy when the dog has been demonstrating a good deal of self-control or otherwise working hard.

If the dog explodes energetically outside of the cue, that means the training has continued too long or an unrealistic jump in criteria was attempted. Adjust the training and try again.

  • Use active behaviours. Passive behaviours are much more difficult for crazy dogs than active behavioursóthe dogs have to contain themselves! Behaviours which involve movement allow a constant release of that mental energy and are less likely to lead to explosive outbursts. This is why a crazy dog can retrieve or search for much longer than he can practice his down stay, which seems to be a much less complicated behaviour.

The movement helps dispel stress much more efficiently and still provides the benefits of a focused behavior.

This is useful information for managing dogs in daily life. Is the dog stressed by an outside influence, perhaps a stranger or a rude dog? Instead of "sit and watch," as many teach, ask the dog for a heel, a spin, or a leaping target. The movement helps dispel stress much more efficiently and still provides the benefits of a focused behaviour.

Is your crazy dog too enthusiastic at the door? Instead of teaching "sit" to greet, which is very tough for these dogs, teach the dog to fetch a toy and bring it to the new arrival, holding it in his mouth as he is petted. This gives the dog a place to channel his energy (his jaws) while also preventing mouthing or licking.

  • Be proactive. The problem with crazy dogs is that they are faster than humans, mentally as well as physically. By the time you realize youíve encountered a challenge, your dog might have evaluated several behavioural options and settled on what makes the most sense to herósomething you probably do not want!

At the educated end of the leash, your job is to instruct the dog about what will pay off best ó well before that scenario arises. Dogs load energy too quickly to interrupt them once theyíre reacting (although they can learn that later). Catch them before they lose their focus.

In the end, crazy dogs show some of the most dramatic transformations, from happy, brash, and crashing maniacs to happy, enthusiastic, and focused partners. Thatís reinforcing to all of us.

About the author

Laura VanArendonk Baugh, CPDT, KPACTP, started playing with animals at an early age and never grew out of it. She owns Canines In Action, Inc. in Indianapolis, where she lives with her tolerant husband and three dogs. Laura is also a Karen Pryor Academy faculty member.

Thanks to Laura, Karen Pryor and www.clickertraining.com Go to this website for many more interesting articles.

© 2006 TTouch - eugenie@ttouch.co.za.   All Rights Reserved.